Fire Lakes, Thermal Coastlines, and a City That Smells of Custard Tarts
Eight days at the very edge of Europe — two in Lisbon’s tiled streets, five chasing volcanic lakes and hot-spring coastlines on São Miguel, and one last golden evening back where it began.
🟡 Food
🔵 Culture
🔴 Adventure
- Dates
- 5–12 September, end of summer
- Route
- Sofia → Lisbon → São Miguel → Lisbon → Sofia
- Duration
- 8 days / 7 nights
- Travellers
- 2 adults
- Pace
- Slow, with two full-day excursions
- Weather
- 23–30°C, occasional afternoon showers on São Miguel
There’s a particular kind of disorientation that comes from flying two more hours west after you thought you’d already reached the edge of the map. Lisbon feels like the end of continental Europe — all fado bars and cobbled hills tumbling toward the Tagus. Then you board a second flight, watch the mainland vanish, and land, well after midnight, on a volcanic island in the middle of the Atlantic where the air smells of hydrangeas and sulphur. That’s the shape of this trip: two nights easing into Lisbon, five days deep in the crater lakes and thermal coastlines of São Miguel, and one final unhurried evening back in Lisbon before the flight home to Sofia.
Where We Based OurselvesTwo Cities, Two Rhythms
Lisbon — Baixa & Belém
One overnight on arrival, one more on the way home. Enough time for a guided pass through Baixa, the Discoveries monument, and Belém Tower, with Alfama left for wandering rather than ticking off.
Ponta Delgada, São Miguel
Home base for five nights near Populo beach, a short bus ride from the historic centre’s Three Squares, Portas da Cidade, and the harbour promenade.
The Interior — Fogo, Furnas, Sete Cidades
The volcanic heart of the island, reached by day trips: crater lakes, thermal parks, and viewpoints that don’t photograph as green as they actually are.
The Northeast Coast
Vila Franca do Campo, Povoação, and Nordeste — the quieter, more dramatic side of the island, best done as a single loop day.
Day by DayThe Itinerary
Day 1 Sofia to Lisbon
A short afternoon flight, 14:50 to 17:20, and we landed into a Lisbon still holding onto full summer heat. No agenda for the evening beyond checking into the hotel and finding somewhere with a terrace for dinner — the kind of low-key first night that lets you actually feel like you’ve arrived, rather than just changed location.
Day 2 Lisbon by Day, Azores by Night
Checked out of the hotel in the morning and handed the day to a local guide for a panoramic tour of the city: Marquês de Pombal square, the earthquake-rebuilt Baixa district with its Rossio, Figueira, and Comércio squares, the Monument to the Discoveries, Belém Tower, and the Manueline stonework of Jerónimos Monastery. We used the free hours afterward to duck into Alfama — the old quarter of narrow lanes, fado houses, and a tram line that does the climbing for you.
Come evening, back to the airport for the connecting flight to São Miguel — departing 21:55, landing in Ponta Delgada at 23:20. First night on the island began well after midnight, which is worth knowing if you’re planning the same route: build in a slow following morning.
Day 3 Ponta Delgada & a Walk Home in the Rain
A half-day walking tour through Ponta Delgada’s historic centre — starting at the waterfront Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, past the triple-arched Portas da Cidade (the old city gates, relocated here in the 18th century), through the baroque city hall and the Manueline-style Church of São Sebastião at Praça Gonçalo Velho Cabral, ending at the Convent of Our Lady of Hope. Afternoon left open — we took the bus out to Praia das Milícias, then let the weather decide the rest: a rain shower rolled in, and we simply walked back along the coast to Praia do Populo rather than waiting it out. One of those unplanned stretches that ended up being a highlight rather than an inconvenience.
Day 4 Lagoa do Fogo & Furnas — Full-Day Excursion
The excursion that justifies the whole trip. A climb through the Barrosa mountains with both coastlines visible at once, then the descent to the viewpoint over Lagoa do Fogo — the “fire lake” sitting in the island’s highest crater, named for a volcanic eruption centuries back that buried the island’s original capital. From there down to Terra Nostra Park, where a naturally heated, rust-orange mineral pool sits inside a botanical garden thick with imported flora from every continent. The route continued through Ribeira Grande’s baroque old town, the Santa Iria viewpoint over the northern coast, a stop at the Gorreana tea plantation (Europe’s oldest and only tea estate), and finally Pico do Ferro for the panorama over Furnas Lake and its volcanic spa valley — one of the richest concentrations of mineral springs anywhere. Free time for lunch in Furnas’ park before the drive home past Vila Franca do Campo and the Água d’Alto and Populo beaches.
Day 5 Free Day: Rocha da Relva & the Harbour
Skipped the optional Sete Cidades excursion in favour of a slower day close to base. Took the local bus out to the small town of Relva in the morning for the Rocha da Relva walking trail — a coastal path ending in dramatic natural pools carved into black volcanic rock, with barely anyone else on it. Back in Ponta Delgada by early afternoon for an unhurried stroll through the city, ending with lunch at Baía dos Anjos, right on the harbour at the Portas do Mar marina. It’s better known locally as a lively bar than a restaurant — Google has it around 4.2 out of 5, with reviews split between people who love the marina-view terrace and live music, and a few complaints about slow service at peak hours — but the food itself held up well, and the harbour view at lunchtime is hard to beat.
Day 6 The Northeast Coast — Full-Day Excursion
A loop through São Miguel’s quieter, more dramatic northeast: Vila Franca do Campo’s Gothic Church of São Miguel Arcanjo, one of the Azores’ oldest, with its gilded wooden altar; on through Furnas toward Povoação, where the first Portuguese navigators are said to have landed; a coastal walk; and Ponta da Madrugada, one of the island’s most striking clifftop viewpoints. The route wound up through Nordeste village before circling back to Ponta Delgada beneath the slopes of Pico da Vara, the island’s highest peak. Back in town after a long day on the road, dinner was an easy, no-fuss choice: Nonna’s Teeth & Tomatoes, a Neapolitan-style pizzeria rated 4.5 out of 5 on Tripadvisor and ranked in the top 40 of the city’s restaurants, known for a proper wood-fired-style crust despite not actually having a wood oven. No reservations taken, so we simply walked in and waited a short while for a table.
Day 7 Last Lunch in Ponta Delgada, Then Back to Lisbon
Checked out but left the bags in the hotel’s luggage room for the day, saving the last stretch on the island for the meal we’d been looking forward to all week: lunch at Michel, reservation booked well in advance. It’s easy to see why — the restaurant sits at 4.7 out of 5 on Google and 4.8 on Tripadvisor, ranked #3 of over 460 restaurants in Ponta Delgada, with reviewers consistently naming it the best meal of their trip to São Miguel. Velly had the meat — tender, generously portioned, and worth the wait for a table — while Eli went with the sesame-crusted tuna, the dish the restaurant is most famous for. Easily the best meal of the trip. Afternoon flight back to Lisbon, transfer to the hotel for one last night.
Day 8 Sintra, Cabo da Roca & Home
Final checkout, luggage stored again, and a half-day excursion out to Sintra — the fairy-tale hill town that was the Portuguese royal family’s summer residence, UNESCO-listed since 1995, with Pena Palace visible from the town below for those who wanted the climb. From there to Cabo da Roca, continental Europe’s westernmost point, where Portuguese navigators once set off toward the unknown. Back into Lisbon for a last unhurried stretch before the 18:00 flight home, landing in Sofia at 23:55.
Eating & DrinkingWhat We’d Order Again
| Spot | What to get | Where |
|---|---|---|
| Michel | Tender beef tenderloin and sesame-crusted tuna — reservation essential, book well ahead | Rua Eng. José Cordeiro 55-57, Ponta Delgada |
| Baía dos Anjos | Relaxed lunch on the marina terrace, right on the harbour | Portas do Mar, Ponta Delgada |
| Nonna’s Teeth & Tomatoes | Wood-fired pizza, easy weeknight dinner | R. Carvalho Araújo 27, Ponta Delgada |
| Any Ponta Delgada tasca | Caldeirada de peixe — swordfish stewed with potatoes, vegetables, and white wine | Ponta Delgada old town |
| Local wine bar | Verdelho, the Azorean white grown on volcanic soil | São Miguel, island-wide |
| Ponta da Ferraria | Natural hot springs pouring straight into the ocean — worth checking whether it’s included on the northeast tour before booking separately | Western São Miguel |
Off the Main RouteHidden Gems
Rocha da Relva Walking Trail
A short, largely undiscovered coastal trail ending in volcanic rock pools, about an hour from Ponta Delgada.
🌿🌿 Sustainability: medium
Gorreana Tea Plantation
Europe’s only remaining tea estate, folded into the Lagoa do Fogo route — free to walk the fields and taste.
🌿🌿🌿 Sustainability: high
Ponta da Ferraria Hot Springs
Mineral-hot water meeting cold Atlantic surf directly on the rocks — no infrastructure, just the sea doing the work.
🌿🌿🌿 Sustainability: high
Praia das Milícias & Praia do Populo
Local swimming spots a short bus ride from Ponta Delgada, largely free of the tour-bus crowd chasing Sete Cidades — and connected by a coastal walk if a rain shower catches you between the two.
🌿🌿 Sustainability: medium
Alfama’s Back Lanes, Lisbon
Left unscheduled on purpose — the old quarter rewards getting lost more than it rewards a checklist.
🌿🌿 Sustainability: medium
AccommodationWhere We Stayed
VIP Executive Arts, Lisbon — 2 nights
Straightforward, well-located base for the bookend nights — nothing fancy required when you’re only sleeping there. Breakfast came with genuinely excellent fresh pineapple both mornings, a small detail that set the tone for the trip.
VIP Executive Azores, Ponta Delgada — 5 nights
Walking distance to Populo beach and its small fortress, roughly 20–30 minutes by bus from Praia das Milícias, and close enough to the historic centre for an evening stroll. Breakfast here kept up the streak — the same excellent fresh pineapple, every single morning, five days running. Small thing to love an island for, but we did.
Getting There & AroundLogistics
Flew Wizz Air Sofia–Lisbon–Sofia, connecting to Easyjet for the Lisbon–Ponta Delgada–Lisbon leg, both with one 10 kg cabin bag included. Airport-hotel transfers were arranged both in Lisbon and on São Miguel. On the island, local buses covered most beach runs affordably; the two full-day excursions (Lagoa do Fogo/Furnas, and the Northeast) and the half-day Sintra/Cabo da Roca trip were pre-booked coach tours with a guide, each requiring a minimum group size to run.
Note on documents: travel insurance (“Помощ при пътуване в чужбина,” €10,000 limit) was included in the package price; a separate optional trip-cancellation policy was offered but not required.
Must-BuysWhat to Bring Home
- Verdelho wine — from any São Miguel wine shop or the airport duty-free.
- Gorreana tea — bought directly at the plantation, cheaper than anywhere in town.
- Azulejo-style tiles or magnets — Lisbon’s Baixa district has dozens of small workshops.
- Pineapple preserves — São Miguel’s greenhouse-grown pineapples turn up as jams and liqueurs across the island.
- Postcards from Ponta Delgada’s Three Squares — sold at the small kiosks near Portas da Cidade.
BudgetMoney Hacks
Book the package excursions together, not separately
The full-day Lagoa do Fogo/Furnas and Northeast tours, plus entrance tickets, came bundled at a lower combined rate than booking each site’s admission and a private driver individually.
Carry cash for tourist tax and tips
Lisbon’s tourist tax (paid at hotel reception, not upfront) and the customary daily tip for guides and drivers are both cash-only in practice — budget roughly €2 per person per day for each.
Skip the rented tour headsets if you’re comfortable following along loosely
At around €3 per person per day, the audio headsets on guided tours add up fast across a week — worth it for detail-heavy history stops, skippable for the scenic drive days.
| Item | Approx. cost (2 people) |
|---|---|
| Base package (flights, hotels, transfers, 2 guided tours) | €2,024 |
| Lagoa do Fogo & Furnas full-day excursion | €97 |
| Northeast full-day excursion | €101 |
| Site entrance tickets | €141 |
| Sintra & Cabo da Roca half-day excursion | €101 |
| Tourist tax & tips (cash, on the ground) | ~€41 |
Honest NotesWhat We’d Do Differently
The midnight arrival on São Miguel after the connecting flight made the first full day feel rushed — booking an extra buffer night, or simply not scheduling the Ponta Delgada walking tour for the very next morning, would have let the trip breathe better. We’d also confirm in advance whether Ponta da Ferraria’s ocean-facing hot springs are included on the standard Northeast tour, since it wasn’t clear until we were already on the island — worth a direct question to the tour operator before departure next time.
PackingWhat to Bring
- Layers — São Miguel shifts from 23°C sun to sudden afternoon rain within the hour.
- A proper rain shell, not just an umbrella, for the crater-lake excursions.
- Swimwear for both ocean beaches and Terra Nostra’s thermal pool (it stains light fabrics — bring a pool-only suit).
- Comfortable walking shoes with grip for volcanic rock trails like Rocha da Relva.
- Euros in cash for tourist tax, tips, and small vendors.
VellyWay Moments
- The first sight of Lagoa do Fogo from the viewpoint — a color of blue-green water that photographs flatter than it looks in person.
- Soaking in Terra Nostra’s rust-orange thermal pool as the afternoon light dropped through the garden canopy.
- Rocha da Relva’s black rock pools, reached by local bus, with no one else on the trail.
- The unplanned walk back from Praia das Milícias to Praia do Populo in a passing rain shower — better than the beach day we’d actually planned.
- Reservation lunch at Michel on the last day in Ponta Delgada — Velly’s beef tenderloin and Eli’s sesame-crusted tuna, easily the meal of the trip.
- Cabo da Roca at the very edge of the continent, wind loud enough to make conversation pointless.
Final ThoughtsClosing
Lisbon gets you ready — the heat, the tiled hills, the sense of a continent narrowing to a point. But São Miguel is where the trip actually opens up: an island small enough to circle by car in a day, yet holding fire lakes, thermal coastlines, and enough green to make “volcanic” feel like the wrong word for it. Two nights in Lisbon on either end turned out to be exactly right — enough to taste the city without competing with the main event. If there’s a lesson from this one, it’s that the islands do the heavy lifting; the mainland is just the doorway.
Until the next fire lake — VellyWay.